The purpose of the Evolution 9 Style was to bring a new design for a new era. This leading moto eventually led to identify three leading principles :
A total of 9 design elements arose from these principles, as recalled by this page of the Grand Seiko website.
These codes have already inspired a few timepieces over the last two years, from the limited SLGH002 to the most recent SLGA009 White Birch. The Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022 salon offered Grand Seiko the opportunity to expand this collection into sport, with five new timepieces.
It is important to note here that Evolution 9 is thus becoming the first “mixed” or “transversal” collection of Grand Seiko, gathering these new sporty creations as well as more polyvalent models (e.g. the White Birch). This does not confuses collections, but rather unifies timepieces with different purposes under a common family, for they share strong similarities.
With a more active purpose in mind, the design principles mentioned above were further enhanced, only to give these sport models a true Grand Seiko touch.
Catching the eye at first glimpse is the new design of the case, which DNA is shared by each of these new creations. While retaining the overall shape of the first Evolution 9 models disclosed, the sport models gain a bold crown guard in the process, its surfaces alternating between Zaratsu polished and hairline brush in the purest Grand Seiko philosophy.
The crowns have deeper grooves allowing for better grip at use and, as for the chronographs, the pushers have abandoned the large size the ones from Sport Collection (inherited from the hand chronographs used by Seiko in several sport competitions, including the Olympics) for a smaller design.
The first Evolution 9 timepieces had improved legibility thanks to the use of a new design for hands, as well as for hour markers, which came widened with deep middle grooves. These new references being sport intended, they also benefit from LumiBrite, generously coating hands and markers. While plain white at daylight, they glow in green (hours and minutes) and blue (GMT hands and scales) when light conditions require it.
The typeface of the GMT scale has also been revised, once again for better legibility purpose.
SBGE285
SBGC251
Finally, to ensure maximum legibility and following the rules edicted by the 1967 Grand Seiko style, the dials of these new creations, though sometimes patterned, keep a flat shape.
Each of these references share the common Evolution 9 goal of improving the wearability and comfort at wrist, and a first fitting of any of them will surely prove anyone it has been accomplished.
First of all, Grand Seiko’s own High-Intensity Titanium alloy has been chosen has the core material of these timepieces, the resulting light weight obviously increasing the wearability of watches with generous diameters (from 41mm to 45,6mm).
Secondly, this evolution of comfort is made possible thanks to the new design of the case itself, but also to the shape of the bracelet, created with balance in mind. As for the case itself, we might note that, compared to watches from Sport Collection sharing similar diameter, Evolution 9 models are actually a bit slimmer :
SBGE283 & SBGE285 : 41mm x 13,9mm / SBGE253 : 40,5mm x 14,7mm
SBGC249 & SBGC251 : 45,3mm x 15,8mm / SBGC242 : 43,8mm x 16,1mm
SLGA015 : 43,8mm x 13,8mm / SBGA463 : 44,2mm x 14mm
More important than these figures and speeches is the actual fit on the wrist, and nothing beats a touch & feel discovery at any Grand Seiko authorized store. But enough for the theory, and let’s have a quick look on these watches.
Joining the collection are two GMT, two chronographs GMT and one diver’s, each of them being powered by Spring Drive calibers, the latest benefiting from the most recent 9RA5.
This 41mm reference comes in two declinations : a semi-mate pitch black dial (SBGE283) and a textured dial (SBGE285)
The latest is nicknamed Mistflake, its pattern being the same as most renowned SBGA211 Snowflake, but coming in a different color scheme, embodying the grey color of the mist between the mountains nearby Shinshu, where every Grand Seiko Spring Drive is manufactured.
The GMT scale of the fixed bezel benefits from the new typeface mentioned earlier, and plays with the GMT hand which LumiBrite blue glow differs from the green one of hours, minutes and markers.
SBGE283
SBGE285 "Mistflake"
They are both powered by Spring Drive GMT 9R66 caliber, which delivers a ±1 second per day accuracy and 72 hours power reserve. Hour hand can be set independently, without having to stop to movement, to maintain precision when switching time zones.
Referenced SBGC249 and SBGC251, these two chronographs may have a lot in common, but they do have their differences.
Sharing a 45,3mm wide case, newly designed from the pushers to the bezel, they offer a new turn on Grand Seiko chronographs. The pushers are distinguished from the number of grooves they wear, while the bidirectional rotative bezel is clad with the beloved sapphire crystal bezel, allowing for greater depth and shinier looks. Its rotation is click-less and thus very smooth, to keep track of a third time zone. Finally, both of them share the same LumiBrite color scheme in low light conditions, as shown earlier.
The two of them can be first distinguished from their liveries, SBGC249 coming with a peculiar “Cosmo blue” hue, while SBGC251 has opted for pitch black, its turquoise GMT hand standing out over the dial.
SBGC249 and its "Cosmo Blue" color scheme
SBGC251
More important, SBGC249 takes part in the celebration of Grand Seiko chronograph’s 15th anniversary and thus comes as a limited edition of 700. For the same reason, and as SBGC247 in early 2022, this special edition is powered by Spring Drive chronograph GMT 9R96 caliber, specially adjusted to reach an accuracy of ±0,5 second per day (as recalled by the 18k gold medallion on the oscillating weight).
« May be the world’s most accurate spring driven chronograph »
Its “standard” counterpart SBGC251 still benefits from the ±1 second per day accuracy of 9R86 caliber, in a non-limited edition. The architecture remains the same : vertical clutch and column wheel for a traditional and smooth approach on chronographs, and Spring Drive regulation as for innovation.
Last of these novelties, Grand Seiko introduces a new 200m diver’s watch with a stunning patterned dial.
SLGA015 Ushio digs its natural inspiration within the Kuroshio, the strong black stream which stands violently alongside the South-East coasts of Japan. Its tides and waves are figured in the black patterned dial of this diver’s timepiece, subtly playing with shades and lights without compromising the necessary legibility of a professional intended timepiece.
Boasting a 43,8mm wide case, its thickness remains a comfortable 13,8mm, notably thanks to the new design and the slimness of latest generation Spring Drive 5 Days 9RA5 caliber which brings it to life. Its 120 hours power reserve can be tracked through the indicator hand on the dial.
The white hour markers, coated with LumiBrite, stand out in a beautiful contrast with the dark dial and bezel’s pitch black ceramic insert. The latest is unidirectionally rotating, its precise setting being ensured by 120 clicks.
The watch is fitted on a High-Intensity Titanium, closed by a three-fold deployant clasp with secure lock and slide adjuster.
Grand Seiko SBGE283 & SBGE285 “Mistflake”
Recommended Retail Price : 8,500 €
Case and bracelet : High-Intensity Titanium
Dimensions : 41mm diameter x 13,9 thickness
Caliber Spring Drive GMT 9R66
Availability : August 2022 at Grand Seiko Boutiques, Salons and Mastershops
Grand Seiko SBGC249 & SBGC251
Recommended Retail Price : 12,500 € & 11,500 €
Case and bracelet : High-Intensity Titanium
Dimensions : 45,3mm diameter x 15,8mm thickness
Calibers Spring Drive chronograph GMT 9R96 & 9R86
Availability : June 2022 (SBGC249) and September 2022 (SBGC251) at Grand Seiko Boutiques, Salons and Mastershops
Grand Seiko SLGA015 “Ushio”
Recommended Retail Price : 11,800 €
Case and bracelet : High-Intensity Titanium
Dimensions : 43,8mm diameter x 13,8mm thickness
Caliber Spring Drive 5 Days 9RA5
Availability : August 2022 at Grand Seiko Boutiques and Salons
